How to install slatted acoustic panels
Written for the installer on site, not for a catalogue. Follow the sequence and two people fix 40–60 m² in a working day.
Check the substrate first
Almost every installation complaint we receive traces back to an uneven substrate. The panel is rigid; it will not close a gap.
- Flatness tolerance: 2 mm over 2 m, checked with a straight edge
- Substrate moisture content below 12% before fixing
- Electrical and data first-fix complete and tested — you will not want to open the wall again
- Panels acclimatised on site for 48 hours, stacked flat, in the room they will be installed in
Three ways to fix the panel
Choose by how much low-frequency absorption you need and how flat the wall is.
1. Direct fix (adhesive + screws)
Fastest and thinnest. Construction adhesive plus screws into the substrate through the gaps between slats. Finished wall grows by the panel thickness only. Best for corridors and renovation.
2. Timber battens
25–50 mm battens at 400 mm centres, panel screwed to the battens. Gives a cavity, improves low-frequency absorption and levels out a slightly uneven wall.
3. Metal stud frame
For large walls and ceilings where a full cavity is wanted. The heaviest option, the best acoustic result, and the one to specify in studios and halls.
A 50 mm cavity behind the panel is the single most cost-effective upgrade for bass performance. If the client complains about low frequency, specify battens, not a thicker panel.
Step by step
Step 1 — Set out the first panel
Start from the most visible corner, not from the door. Snap a vertical line with a laser or plumb line. The first panel decides everything: get it plumb and level, and the rest follows.
Leave a 3–5 mm expansion gap at the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. It will be covered by the edge trim.
Step 2 — Fix and check
Apply adhesive in a continuous bead on the felt side, press the panel into position, then drive screws through the gaps between slats into the substrate. Do not over-tighten — the felt compresses and the panel face distorts.
Check plumb after every third panel. Correcting a 5 mm drift at panel 3 is a five-minute job; at panel 20 it is a rebuild.
Step 3 — Cut around openings
Measure the opening, add the trim width, then cut from the back face with a fine-tooth circular saw or a track saw. Cutting from the face chips the veneer.
For sockets and switches, drill the corners first, then cut between them with a jigsaw. Cut 2 mm oversize and cover with the switch plate.
Step 4 — Joints and edges
Panels butt-joint. The slat pattern is designed to continue across the joint, so the gap between slats must line up — check every joint with a straight edge as you go.
Finish the perimeter with the matching edge trim in the same finish. Corners: mitre the trim rather than butting it.
Step 5 — Ceilings
Ceiling panels need mechanical fixing only — no adhesive. Use a stud frame or battens at 300–400 mm centres, and never rely on the felt for support.
Two people minimum, plus a panel lifter for modules above 600 × 1200 mm. Do not lift a 600 × 2400 panel by the slats.
Step 6 — Handover
Dust the panel with a vacuum brush, never a wet cloth. Touch up scuffed edges with the supplied repair marker.
Leave two spare panels on site for future damage. On a 300 m² order, two panels cost nothing and save a re-order in year three.
What the installer needs
- Fine-tooth circular saw or track saw (60T blade or finer)
- Jigsaw for openings; drill with a 8 mm bit for socket corners
- Laser level or plumb line; 2 m straight edge
- Construction adhesive (solvent-free), screw gun with torque control
- Soft mallet, masking tape, vacuum with brush attachment
No specialist tooling and no wet trades. That is the reason this product is popular on sites where the labour is not specialised in acoustic work.
Cleaning and maintenance
Dust
Vacuum with a brush head every 3–6 months. Dry cloth for light dust. Never a wet cloth on veneer — water lifts the edge joint.
Scuffs and marks
A soft pencil eraser removes most scuffs on PVC film. Veneer marks are treated with the supplied repair marker, blended along the grain.
Damage
A single damaged panel can be replaced: cut it out at the joints, clean the substrate, fix a new panel. This is why we recommend keeping two spares on site.
Humidity
Keep indoor relative humidity between 40% and 70%. Below 35% in dry-season air conditioning, MDF can shrink at the joints.
Need the installation drawing for your site?
We supply a fixing detail drawing (PDF) with every order — direct fix, batten and stud frame versions, plus the edge trim detail.